Aroma30

Italian heart, London based, the combination could not sound better. Michela is the designer behind the label Aroma30. The clothes she showed at the On/Off exhibition during the London Fashion Week were incredibly delicate. The perfect patterns prove her experience at houses such as Valentino or Salvatore Ferragamo. The high quality fabrics and the feminine silhouettes prove this is only the starting point.

1. How would you define your brand?
Lights and shadows

2. How did you come up with the name?
I wanted a name that sounded like an unfinished perfume


3. You have studied in Roma and worked at Salvatore Ferragamo or Valentino. How come you decide to establish your own brand? Was it a difficult decision? Do you think their classic style influences somehow in your design?
It was quite natural to start, I didn't really decide. I just wanted to explore my own style and express it while improving my capabilities. My background influences me on creating wearable items and paying attention to quality and details.

4. You tend to do almost-monochromatic collections (white, now black), is there any reason?
I guess I often have a monochromatic vision of life, with different shades.

5. What does inspire you? Do you have any theme for your collections?
I usually start with a precise inspiration and then I let other influences to come across and change it. It's more like a creation of a mood instead of following a theme.


6. Who is your favourite designer? Style icon? Colour?
My favourite designer is Madeleine Vionnet. I can't really say I've a style icon, I love looking at charming people in general, catching the attitude behind their daily moments. My colour is definitely black.


7. Being Italian, why did you choose to be based in London?
Because London is the place of wannabes


8. If you could choose any fashion week in the world, where would you show your creations? Why?
London is still the best platform for an emerging designer as it offers support and inspirations.



9. Do you think that style has anything to do with money? How would you define a person with style?
I really believe that anything showing richness has no style at all. A person with style is someone with a vision on his mind.

Trend alert: clogs

Performance

Alternative ways of showing clothes are in vogue. Most likely a limited budget or maybe a nod to innovation are the reasons why. Yesterday I went to the presentation of Maaike Mekking's new collection. At first it was interesting, different. After one hour standing, looking at a girl changing clothes (like in this video below) you get tired. The clothes don't matter anymore and the only thing you want to do is clearing off.

Las formas alternativas de presentar las colecciones están de moda. La mayoría de los casos probablemente debido a un presupuesto limitado o simplemente buscando la innovación. Ayer fui a la presentación de la nueva colección de Maaike Mekking. Los primeros diez minutos fueron muy interesantes: una chica cambiándose de ropa frente a un espejo, mucha ropa sobre la alfombra, una situación corriente para muchas. Pero tras una hora de pie observando a la modelo, te cansas. La ropa deja de importarte y en lo único que piensas es en largarte.

On/Off - London Fashion Week

This evening I went back to the fashion dream factory. The first image you see when you get inside the Victoria House, heading for the new designer exhibitions that everyone can see, is this tender deer. The lighting, meticulously calculated, makes you feel instantly nostalgic and curious, dying to see what's in the next room. After a "you-are-not-in-the-list" episode I better forget, I could get into the shows. It was four for one. I was invited to the Txell Miras show but I could also enjoy Derek Lawlor's, Mr + Mr's and Samantha Cole's as they all presented their collections in a row. Check the video below and judge.

However, the best was in the exhibition: Aroma 30 and Shopie Gittins made my day. Delicated dresses with amazing shapes and really good looking fabrics in the first case and fairy tale shoes in the second. Shoes that really have that je ne sais quoi. Shoes you cannot forget. And I don't lie when I say that she has instantly become my second favourite shoe designer.

Esta tarde he viajado de nuevo a esa fábrica de sueños que es la moda. La primera imagen que el visitante puede ver en la Victoria House, que alberga la pasarela para nuevos talentos alternativa a la London Fashion Week, es ese hermoso y tierno cervatillo de la primera imagen. La luz, meticulosamente calculada, con esa sobriedad que abruma, empuja tu curiosidad y te conduce irremediablemente a la siguiente habitación. Tras un episodio de "lo siento pero no estás en la lista" que prefiero olvidar, por fin tuve acceso a los desfiles. Y fue cuatro por uno. Estaba invitada al desfile de Txell Miras y también pude ver los de Derek Lawlor, Mr+ Mr y Samantha Cole, ya que los cuatro presentaron sus colecciones seguidamente. Mira el vídeo y juzga por ti mismo/a.

Sin embargo, lo mejor para mí estaba en la exposición: Aroma 30 y Sophie Gittins alegraron mi día. Delicados vestidos con formas esculturales y materiales que destacaban por su calidad en el primer caso y zapatos de cuento en el segundo. Zapatos que realmente tienen ese je ne sais quoi. Zapatos que no puedes olvidar. Y no miento cuando digo que Gittins se ha convertido en mi segunda diseñadora de zapatos favorita.

Let it grow

Unfortunately New York Fashion Week was deeply marked by the tragic passed away of Mr. McQueen. But here you are a detail to look at: long slightly wild hair.

The lady of Shalott, by Waterhouse

Desafortunadamente la semana de la moda de Nueva York estuve marcada por la trágica muerte de Alexander McQueen. Pero he aquí un detalle a tener en cuenta: melenas largas, ligeramente salvajes.

From left: 3.1 Philip Lim, Derek Lam, Marc Jacobs, Anna Sui, Proenza Schouler and Narciso Rodríguez.

Spanish Harper's Bazaar

Carmen Kass is in the cover of the Spanish edition of the Harper's Bazaar, which will be in the newstands next Friday. This photo is a tribute to a 1992 Linda Evangelista's cover, when late Liz Tilberis was yet editor of the American edition of this magazine.

Carmen Kass es la protagonista de la portada del primero número de la edición española de Harper's Bazaar, que se pondrá a la venta el próximo viernes. La portada, firmada por Nico, es un homenaje a una portada de 1992 en la que aparecía Linda Evangelista, cuando la desaparecida Liz Tilberis era aún editora de la edicion americana de la revista.

Just Kids

Autobiographies and biographies are not my thing. Or it used to be that way. Until I read Edie Sedgwick's. I found out a lot not only about the kind of person she might have been, but also about fashion. And music. And art. And celebrity. Ever since, it may sound like a cliché, but I am interested in everything that happened at the Chelsea Hotel. And these two (Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe) were there. So her memories of those times written in Just Kids must be interesting.

Even if I am not a fan of Smith, Mapplethorpe's talent and their adventures in that New York which apparently doesn't exist anymore, tips the scales in the book's favour. I hope it's worth it.

Las autobiografías y las biografías no son lo mío. O solía ser así. Hasta que leí la de Edie Sedgwick. Averigué mucho no solo sobre la clase de persona que debió ser, si no también sobre moda. Y música. Y arte. Y celebridad. Desde entonces, aun a riesgo de caer en clichés, me interesa todo lo que pasa en el Chelsea Hotel. Y estos dos (Patti Smith y Robert Mapplethorpe) estaban allí.

Admito que no soy fan de Smith, pero el talento de Mapplethorpe unido a las aventuras que ambos vivieron en ese Nueva York que no existe ya hace que la balanza se incline a su favor. Espero que merezca la pena.

McQueen, genius

He is gone. McQueen has passed away. Unexpectedly. One of the few who made poetry out of fashion. His legacy is irreplaceable.

McQueen se nos ha ido. Inesperadamente. Uno de los pocos que supo hacer poesía de la moda. Su legado es irreemplazable.

Chasing the american dream

The spring is around the corner and one of the best choices is denim. Even at the risk of being redundant, a total-denim look is what is needed for capturing the essence of this trend. Denim, the eternal fabric, was first introduced to fashion in 1853 by a German immigrant, Levi Strauss. He moved from New York to California, where the gold rush was at its height and where workers needed resistents pants. In the Fifties jeans became very popular among the younth. Levi Strauss made history.

Often jeans are considered symbols of the American dream and good representatives of the American culture outside USA's borders. Apparently most of the developed countries are getting over the recession. Catwalks nodded in assent giving denim a wink.

From left: Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier Couture, Hermès, D&G, House of Holland, Jean Paul Gaultier, Chanel

La primavera está a la vuelta de la esquina y una de las mejores opciones es el denim. Incluso a riesgo de ser redudante, un total look en denim es lo que se necesita para capturar la esencia de esta tendencia. Denim, el tejido eterno, fue descubierto en 1853 por un inmigrante alemán, Levi Strauss. Se había trasladado desde Nueva York a California, donde la quimera del oro mandaba y donde los trabajadores necesitaban pantalones resistentes. En los años cincuenta los pantalones vaqueros se convirtieron en una de las prendas más utilizadas por la juventud. Y Levi Strauss hizo historia.

A menudo los jeans se consideran símbolos del sueño americano y grandes representantes de la cultura americana fuera de sus fronteras. Parece que la mayoría de los países desarrollados se están reponiendo de la crisis. Y las pasarelas asienten con este guiño al denim.

From left: Ralph Lauren, Twenty8Twelve, Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, Chloé

*pictures: style.com

Txell Miras and the Fine Art of fashion

The Barcelona based fashion designer Txell Miras speaks about her inspirations, her artistic background and the competitive fashion world

The fashion designer Txell Miras was born in Barcelona thirty three years ago. Because she wanted to be an artist she initially studied Fine Arts. Eventually she ended up working in the fashion industry. To many, fashion is not art. To many others, however, it is. Txell’s sense of discretion means she prefers not to address such a dilemma. She has her own label and collaborates with Devon-born designer Neil Barrett. And for the time being that is enough work.

Her minimalist, gloomy and ethical garments and her wise utilization of apparently mismatched materials have more to do with the Belgian based Antwerp School than with Barcelona, were her studio is located at the moment. “In Spain catwalks are more public and are more affordable, you can have a low-cost show”, she explains. The beginning is never easy. “To get on in fashion industry is really complicated. Everything in this world is very brand orientated and without a name it is very difficult to start, to get people to know you, to find the right shops to sell your garments…”declares the designer, whose working days normally start at 10am and end at 9pm with only a break for lunch. Like her compatriot Pablo Picasso used to say, she thinks that “inspiration exists, but it has to find me working, I prefer looking for it than just waiting for it”.

The artistic background is clearly evident in her garments. “My method of work is from a creative perspective, I come up with a concept and after I develop that idea by working with shapes, I am very influenced by Fine Arts”.

Nervousness and satisfaction are the two words she uses more when it comes to catwalks. She thinks that the best aspect of working in fashion “is enjoying it so much” and the worst is “the show and cynicism around it”.

In 2003 Txell won the Most Promising Young Designer award from Camera della Moda Italiana while she was studying her MA at the Domus Academy, in Milan. She then started to design Neil Barrett’s womenswear collection, (Barrett had achieved great acclaim for launching Prada’s menswear in 1995, and also worked for Gucci). Txell empathises with Barrett’s innovative and independent approach to fashion.

As her favourite designer is Haider Ackermann, it is not surprising that she focuses on, “the total silhouette more than the garments”. She does not believe in the hegemony of catwalks and claims that, “the street and the catwalks boost each other”. Txell admits that London has a great and diverse street-style, and it's there where she is going to show her new collection the next 19th.







*Picture: neo2 magazine

La diseñadora catalana Txell Miras habla de sus inspiraciones, sus orígenes artísticos y la competitividad en el mundo de la moda

La diseñadora Txell Miras nació en Barcelona hace treinta y tres años. Quería ser una artista, así que estudió Bellas Artes y ahora trabaja en la industria de la moda. Para muchos, la moda es un arte. Para muchos otros, no lo es. Txell tiene su propia marca y además colabora con el diseñador inglés Neil Barret. Y de momento eso es suficiente trabajo.

Sus éticas prendas minimalistas y su sabia utilización de materiales que a primera vista no encajan tiene más que ver con la escuela belga de Antwerp que con Barcelona, donde Txell tiene su estudio en la actualidad. “En España las pasarelas son públicas y es asequible desfilar a bajo coste” explicó. Ningún inicio es fácil. “Abrirse camino es lo más difícil. El mundo de la moda es muy marquista y sin un nombre es muy difícil arrancar. Darse a conocer, acceder a los puntos de venta…” declare la diseñadora. Sus jornadas laborales comienzan a las 10 y finalizan a las 9 con un descanso para comer. Como Picasso solía decir, “la creatividad se encuentra trabajando. No me es especialmente difícil pero se debe buscar más que esperar a que llegue”. Su origen artístico es más que evidente en sus prendas. “Mi método creativo es muy parecido al que utilizaba para mis trabajos en Bellas Artes. Parto de un concepto y lo desarrollo trabajando con las formas”.

Nerviosismo y satisfacción son las dos palabras que más utiliza cuando se trata de desfiles. Txell cree que lo mejor de trabajar en la moda es que le permite trabajar “en algo que disfruto” y a su juicio, lo peor es “el mundillo que lo rodea”.

En 2003 Txell ganó el premio a Joven Diseñador Más Prometedor de la Camera della Moda Italiana mientras estudiaba su Máster en la Academia Domus en Milán. Entonces comenzó a diseñar la colección de mujer de Neil Barrett (Barrett había conseguido muy buenas críticas con las colecciones de Prada de hombre, que el mismo inició en 1995, y también en su trabajo en Gucci). Txell simpatiza con la visión innovadora e independiente de Barret.

Siendo su diseñador favorito Haider Ackermann, no sorprende que ella se centre “en la silueta total”. Txell no cree en la hegemonía de los desfiles y afirma que “la calle y los desfiles se retroalimentan”. La diseñadora reconoce que una de las ciudades con estilo más diverso para ella es Londres, en donde tendrá lugar la presentación de su nueva colección, el próximo día 19.